tighten them up, tack weld at the flange. relieves the stress from the studs. they stay tight after that. you can still remove the turbo later if needed by breaking the spot welds. you don't have to tack all the way around either. just the top and maybe 1 or 2 on the side (vertical) front facing side, so you can easily remove them if needed. spookyfish tacked the bolts to the flange, but i think if the bolt breaks it won't stop the problem, although i don't think he has had any problems.

 

Is this (the only) stud exposed to the exhaust gas?

 

I've been racing Solo1 for 3 years with different cars. I'd like to hope I'm fast... otherwise it's all just a big waste of money.

 

I'd rather not weld the thing. I'll try better fasteners first and if that doesn't work just throw money at it.

They all are exposed to exhaust gas in the manifold.

 

Mike, it's a lot of work but what you can do is remove the turbo and manifold, get the hardware re-installed and snug, and then drill it all for safety wire. It will still leak a little, but you'll be able to run full sessions.

 

what's the trick to that? do you drill the stud only or drill through the nut as well? Any DIY's?

My manifold/turbo are off the car right now so I figured may as well do it now.

 

Copy this logic to your bolts:

 

Did anyone ever try 316ss? Searching didn't come up with much real testing - only theory. I know the math says it's destined to fail, but if it holds through a few track days it's better than what I have now and I have a set of them already.

 

Mike, are you around tonight? Call my cell, I have a gift for you.

 

Savington killed SS safety wire. I think I drive pretty hard, locals will probably agree, and I've had 4-track events on inconel safewire from aircraft spruce. I pulled the turbo after 4-track events and every CHRA bolt is still tight.

 

Sorry, I'll try to be more specific. When running a stud/nut combo, do you drill through the nut and stud or just the stud right above the nut?

 

Generally castle nuts. This briefly covers it, mainly in the pictures:

Safety Wiring - More Than You'll Ever Need to Know

 

I prefer bolts for safety wire but I don't really know what I'm talking about because I'm a paper-jocky, not an engineer. You have to drill through both if you choose to stud it.

 

You're losing your touch, there are more than a few ways to make this sound significantly more gay than it needs to.

 

dunno if anyone ever cared... but A286 and Rene-41 bolts work fine... drilled 12pt bolt heads for lockwire... anyway. nobody cares. But, it works fine for Mr. Verges...

 

yes, but where can you find these elusive bolts?

 

Right in this thread. Click here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t35874-35/#post452177

And here:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#a286-super-...screws/=5v3hf6

 

They are indeed so elusive I bought about 100 of them from ebay. about 30 are Rene-21 in 5/16 and the rest are A 286 in 5/16 or 3/8ths. I drilled and tapped for standard hardware, only because all the jet guys use standard size.

McMaster won't have the rene stuff, and maybe not the A286 stuff either. Its usually Mil/aerospace spec for GE/Lockhead/etc.
If that doesn't work for you, call these guys. They are awesome.
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123 North Pine Street
Indianapolis, IN 46202-3844
(317) 269-1520

Honestly, I have no desire to try and package and supply kits anymore. It works for me, you can try it if you care.

WTF is Rene-41?

*EDIT* P.S. If you go with RENE-41, expect to go through about 1 bit every 1-2 bolt heads if you drill for 1/16-3/32's for lock wire. Not likely you can get a good bit OTC at a hardware store. Get some good high-speed carbide bits. It sucks to cut, but it can be done. Use a good cutting oil too. The A-286 I can do between 8-12 on one bit using the same technique, but its slower on rene.

 

Here's what's left of the lower front stud. I tried tightening it up this afternoon and it popped back out after driving 2 blocks from my apartment.

DSC_1755.jpg?t=1266546809

 

I have one set I could sell you if you haven't bored out the original holes in your mani.. That is, if you can drill/tap to 3/8ths on the turbo-mani and 5/16ths on the DP.

Anyway, one more thing to add. I showed my setup to an instructor today and he mentioned they used to have issues with the garrets' flange warping. he said that the flange would warp in around the bolts and then you would get a leak in-between the two upper bolts/studs. He says the remedy they figured out was using a metal gasket with special raised edges around the bolt holes and around the exhaust opening. This is on the turbo-manifold junction.

Oh, this professor used to work at the SRT department at Dodge, he was there for about 20 years or so. He knows a good bit. Plus he's British. We all know their cars break a lot so he must have mad skill, no?