No reason to do it to the manifold studs that go into the head. At least not at this point in time.

Just do the 4 holding the turbo to the mani, and the 5 (? I think) holding the downpipe to the turbo. If you haven't already had the downpipe come loose, once you get the turbo to manifold nuts holding at all, the downpipe ones come loose.
Of course, just using stage 8 nuts for the downpipe would probably be enough, and this resbond **** on the turbo to manifold hardware.

 

The studs all seem fine after the Nuerburgring, even the nuts are tight. I have a slight flange leak because of previous loosening, so I am thinking in using a 570 F silicone gasket (Dirko HT*) on the flanges, leave the studs in for now and Resbond the nuts all 9.

*) the shop used this before and it held up quite nicely.

 

i don't see how. If your manifold is under 500* then you're not pushing it. If it glows like every manifold should then you're at 600* bare minimum, more like 750. I don't care what the shop said, it won't work. Why would you put it back together without resurfacing?

 

If you use Resbond and it's good to some ungodly temperature, what will you do when you eventually wanna take the studs out?

 

Are we sure its a temp issue and not vibration? Dealing with rotary engines, I have (or don't recall) never seen any issues with studs/nuts on the turbo, all with cast manifold. Seeing as they run pretty extreme exhaust temps, and run smooth as silk and never have issues, and the Miata doesn't exactly have the smoothest engine I've ever felt...

 

supposedly they can be removed with hand tools.

 

It's just a thread locker that will withstand extreme temperatures. It doesn't bond the two materials together like superglue or welding.

 

Superglue bonds?

 

Whatever, you get the point. English is not my native language.

 

Loctite Red is damn near impossible to get out without heating the part first.
If this stuff bonds as strong as Red, the stud may never come out again.

 

Why wouldn't something like this (safety wire) work? This is Patmx5's, btw. I'm assuming it needs to be braided tighter than this, but other than that, why not?

100_0343.jpg

 

I Resbonded my turbo to manifold nuts last night. It should've cured by now. It is sort of a hack, I reused the copper coated nuts, but I have a track day this Thursday so I can't spend too much time on it now. Will test for leaks later today.

 

Because the studs then come straight out, no twisting, just thread shearing.

 

Sound is NFSW:



The studs were tightened into the manifold, then the nuts were tightened onto the studs, then everything was drilled and wired correctly. Initial startup was the quietest this car has ever been, no exhaust leaks at all. One track day later and we are back to square one. I think this resbond **** is just false hope, to be honest. When the threads are either pulling out of the manifold, or the studs themselves are stretching, no amount of mechanical or chemical threadlocking is going to solve the issue. We need a different material for the hardware itself to fix this.

Or a pile of v-bands.

For ***** and grins, put a set of nylon locknuts on your turbo. I have a set of them that no longer have any nylon in them.

 

How about these?
Poss. to re -tap manifold and also use these nuts?



Keeping it together: fastener thread form designed to withstand diesel stresses | Automotive Industries | Find Articles at BNET

http://www.spiralock.com/

 

I do think that 1.25pitch thread would do better than 1.5pitch, just not sure how much better and if that is enough.

 

I'm also considering a manifold like Tim's "begi replacement" with bolts and nuts so we don't have to worry about threading a stud into a manifold. I've seen this work on track cars and its 1/4 the price of v-banding.

 

If you're getting shearing and studs being ripped out, you've got something other than just normal clamping loads, vibration and heat going on, probably an exhaust that's not secured well enough. In that case v-bands will just move the failure point to the head flange or sections of the exhaust will start tearing.

 

Resbond anyone?

Actually, now that I've done this three times, retightening isn't really that bad and I think if you keep the nuts from loosening beyond a certain level the studs will live longer. I still want to fix this.

Right now I've got reused copper coated, resbond like crazy on the 4 studs and nuts, 5-nuts retightened, exhaust has new hanger that limits vibration (it was banging the diff or rear subframe in high-g laterals). Thursday I will be at Zandvoort all day, will report back after that.

 

um...you're using thread-locker as a gasket? lol