EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning) - Page 10 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 06-28-2009, 12:04 PM   #181
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Quote:
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And run at Spa Francorchamps the week after.
Wait, a track day at Spa?! Dude!!!!!
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:05 PM   #182
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
spooky...did you have a failure or not?
Only on the studs that I didnt use Rebond on when they were put in the manifold. The one that I did - because it came out at the time - is tight.

So, to finalize conclusions I am going to Resbond them all with stainless studs and report back.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:07 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
Wait, a track day at Spa?! Dude!!!!!
Yes, I love that track. You guys have Laguna Seca, we've got Spa.
Ok, and the Nürburgring
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:15 PM   #184
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Can you stay flat through Eau Rouge?
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Old 06-28-2009, 02:46 PM   #185
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
Yes, I love that track. You guys have Laguna Seca, we've got Spa.
Ok, and the Nürburgring
This is me jealous. Infineon is pretty awesome too though
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Old 06-28-2009, 03:33 PM   #186
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Can you stay flat through Eau Rouge?
I could when I had 130bhp, although I almost lost control there too once. I don't think it'll be the same.
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:28 PM   #187
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
So, to finalize conclusions I am going to Resbond them all with stainless studs and report back.
Where does one get stainless studs? I am yet to find any.

Edit: You always had problems on track right? Studs/nuts failing after second sessions?
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:35 PM   #188
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Where does one get stainless studs? I am yet to find any. Edit: You always had problems on track right? Studs/nuts failing after second sessions?
I am having OTS make me some. I will ask him what material it is exactly.
Yes, loosening on the track since day one.
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:45 PM   #189
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
I am having OTS make me some. I will ask him what material it is exactly.
Yes, loosening on the track since day one.
Mind seeing if they could make a few? I am sure we would be interested in them if they do hold up.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:28 PM   #190
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Mind seeing if they could make a few? I am sure we would be interested in them if they do hold up.
That won't be an issue, but I want to test the theory first before I make people happy.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:42 PM   #191
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Mcmaster.com has stainless studs
McMaster-Carr
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Old 06-28-2009, 07:21 PM   #192
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Ive had my lugs come loose after I fooled around doing some burnouts, I was leaving and I heard a clunking 2 were falling off...and i did torque them to 100lbs! Had my waterpump bolts back out which were lock-tighted, and i just pulled out my motor last week because it sounded like a spring/lifter collapsed, but it was my cam gear bolt backed out a bit and my gear was sloppy so it created a oval shape inside the gear where the camshaft pinion goes in, so it caused a ticking noise. The guy who built my motor fixed it all for free, im only upset because i had to pull out my whole motor for a stupid cam gear :@
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:37 AM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
Mcmaster.com has stainless studs
McMaster-Carr
18/8 is pretty regular stainless and OTS told me that what they use is different from your bread and butter stainless that you find at every home depot.

Last edited by Laur3ns; 06-29-2009 at 03:54 AM.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:56 AM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stranges12712 View Post
Ive had my lugs come loose after I fooled around doing some burnouts, I was leaving and I heard a clunking 2 were falling off...and i did torque them to 100lbs! Had my waterpump bolts back out which were lock-tighted, and i just pulled out my motor last week because it sounded like a spring/lifter collapsed, but it was my cam gear bolt backed out a bit and my gear was sloppy so it created a oval shape inside the gear where the camshaft pinion goes in, so it caused a ticking noise. The guy who built my motor fixed it all for free, im only upset because i had to pull out my whole motor for a stupid cam gear :@
Dude don't let that guy touch your car ever again.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:09 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stranges12712 View Post
Ive had my lugs come loose after I fooled around doing some burnouts, I was leaving and I heard a clunking 2 were falling off...and i did torque them to 100lbs! Had my waterpump bolts back out which were lock-tighted, and i just pulled out my motor last week because it sounded like a spring/lifter collapsed, but it was my cam gear bolt backed out a bit and my gear was sloppy so it created a oval shape inside the gear where the camshaft pinion goes in, so it caused a ticking noise. The guy who built my motor fixed it all for free, im only upset because i had to pull out my whole motor for a stupid cam gear :@
Shitty grammar, totally irrelevant info. Stay the hell out of this thread.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:16 AM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
He said to use stainless studs, not hardened steel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
When I first had that top brace built, there was a single stainless-steel bolt and nut holding it together. I tightened it up, safety wired it, and it was tight. 2 track sessions later and I can spin the bolt/nut.
Next.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:53 AM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Quote:
stainless-steel bolt and nut
Next.
Home-depot stainless or what?
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:42 AM   #198
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
18/8 is pretty regular stainless and OTS told me that what they use is different from your bread and butter stainless that you find at every home depot.
Well they also have 316SS. You need to find out what alloy they are using if you want to duplicate it since there are a lot of different stainless alloys out there. For example, if they are using A286, which is a corrosion resistant superalloy, that is a LOT different. It is a high strength steel, which depending on how it is heat treated can be up to 150+ ksi ultimate. 316ss is half that.

I shopped briefly for some A286 fasteners but all I could find was very expensive. I know of a project here we are using A286 fasteners for, but it is a high-end NASA application.
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:50 AM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
Well they also have 316SS. You need to find out what alloy they are using if you want to duplicate it since there are a lot of different stainless alloys out there. For example, if they are using A286, which is a corrosion resistant superalloy, that is a LOT different. It is a high strength steel, which depending on how it is heat treated can be up to 150+ ksi ultimate. 316ss is half that.

I shopped briefly for some A286 fasteners but all I could find was very expensive. I know of a project here we are using A286 fasteners for, but it is a high-end NASA application.



$17/ each for American sizes:

McMaster-Carr



Air power systems use A286 studs and copper lock nuts in their turbo kits. You should contact them for metric sizes.
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:08 PM   #200
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I have been trying to get a SM Turbo type of class going for a while now. The cars I build use A286 fasteners. I don't know of anyone else who can say they have raced- and won - endurance races in a Turbo Miata. 4 hours in 2008, 8 hours in 2009.

Seems everyone wants to build a better mousetrap. If you want a proven solution, you can get me at kverges "at" figdav.com. I have 2 built cars ready to race.
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