Mine were around the same without WI. With good WI system you can drop IAT about half of that

 

Ditto

 

Just get some of dem tite hood risers. Cowl induction!

 

I knew you were joking and I still shuddered after reading that.

 

I least he understands it would be cowl induction and not engine-bay-heat extraction.

 

Haha. I should have added a or a after my comment.

 

The SC is off. Our shop is busy for a couple days so unfortunately didn't get a chance to work on the spare engine. But that's happening as soon as I'm able to use the shop. Honestly I need just a few hours to do the bottom end. Then drop off the head for machining and lap valves and replace the cam seals and set valve clearances.

 

I might have missed this previously, but what kind of build are you doing this time around? Same "mild" build as your first miata, or going full out this time?

Could you take pictures and outline the project as you go through it, i'm about to tackle a bottom end myself.

<3 kthx

 

Does anyone have the measurements/specs for setting the valves/buckets/lifters?
Its a 2001 head fwiw.

Considering having a local shop clean the head, mill it, and do a valve job vs doing it myself. He wants $350 for everything including setting the lash/tolerances/etc and it would take me a day or two to do it myself anyway so might not be worth doing myself.

The place is supposed to be pretty reputable.

 

$350 is steep. $225 is more realistic IMO, wait 2 years and i'll do it when I graduate.

 

hmm really? ok, guess I'll have to think about it.

worst case I'll have him mill it and do the valves and buckets myself.

 

My head cleaned, valved, milled and fully assembled ready to put on the short block cost me $225. But, you have to set lash on VVT motors? The lifters aren't hydraulic?

 

It is not too bad of a job. Besides, I have my doubts that he will be as ---- (@nal) about doing it spot on right as you, even if he has a good reputation.

Mazda Motorsports suggested I go a tad tighter than stock. I can not recall the spec, but I am not sure if it would be compatible with a turbo motor or not. Perhaps go to the tightest side of the stock specs.

 

I got $320 to clean, surface, valve job etc but I have to set the valve clearance myself.

 

I paid about that including the gasket kit.

 

well I just did the valve leak test. all look perfect: no bubbles or leaking or anything.

I'm just going to slightly clean/freshen them myself.

I'll just have him mill the head so I'm 110% its perfectly flat.

 

sounds like a good plan. I had new valves put in because I had a few bent on my donor motor. If they weren't bent I would have probably just had the head decked.

 

Basically. A few different things here and there but same basic concept. Hasn't failed me yet

Planning to do that. Nothing serious yet, just dropped off the head at the machine shop for a good milling/resurfacing. After that I'll do a mild valve job, maybe clean up the ports a teeny weeny bit, new valve stems, and she's ready to rock


Its kinda sad how long this is taking me, I could have been done with the whole build in 2 days, but I'm lazy these days, and I got other crap going on like crazy. Kinda enjoying the motor build so far, everything going great, and that's what matters.

 

also did this
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...2/#post1034205

so far holding up great