I would mount it in the vent hole. There is no a/c anyways.

 

I'd put the EGT in the radio surround since it's not ultra critical once the car is tuned well. Maybe you can give it a quick glance on the straights but you won't need it all the time. Then get a single gauge pod for the A-pillar and run a dual oil & water temp gauge there, or a dual gauge pod if you keep separate gauges. Those numbers are important enough that they need to be seen more easily.

When I eventually get mine squared away Ill be running the WBO2 and the dual oil & water temp in a 2-gauge A-pillar pod, and anything else below the radio. On street-only cars, A-pillar gauge pods tend to look like ricer bullshit to me, but track cars have a legitimate need to put gauges up there.

 

Well, I can't find the ferrule so it looks like I won't hook up anything, lol. I'd really like to have this for cruise tuning and an idea of what it does on the track, but its almost a single use gauge.

On another note:

 

Do I want -6 or -10 sized hoses for the heater core? Should I go lower instead of using a restrictor (not recirculated like the stock set-up). Right now I have it on a ball-valve and that is fail.

I almost, and I mean "almost" considered doing nylon/AN fittings for the radiator too, but that is probably over kill. I am still converting to harp-pipes with two rubber couplers on the water return. Operation Ultimate Reliability is about 75% complete.

 

Some say that any car he drives obtains an aura of indestructibility, and that the same aura protects his ********* from frequent self-inflicted blows to the groin. All we know is he's called The Hustler.

 

Was under the impression that he was running a full cage, my mistake. What about placing a gauge in the corner of the instrument cluster?

 

I installed Matt Andrews' old oil cooler duct today:


Tomorrow I'm going to take it apart again and cut grooves in the top so I can feed from the top. I hate this ****, I need a metal fab shop. I wish I had paid someone cash to build all this **** years ago.

 

Black ABS sheet stock is your friend. 1/8" 4' x 8' sheet for $75. Easy to cut, easy to form, no sharp edges.
No need for metal fabrication.

 

I'm tired of looking at all that shitty black plastic crap in my car. I have some alumalite too. I don't like riveting all this **** together...but I still have that roll of plastic in the corner...

 

I thought about mounting the cooler against the frame rail, then boxing the side you see the cooler on now...god I hate this ****.

 

Wish I had the ***** to cut (more) holes in my bumper for NACA ducts. Actually I wish I had $180 in expendable money for TSE's ducts and NACA ducts for the front. Who needs cold brakes and oil...

What's your worry about cutting the top? Anything can be done at home with an angle grinder and cut off wheel.

 

Ok, I confinced myself. Tomorrow I'm going to hard-mount the oil cooler to the frame rail, the rivet together an ABS plastic box around it. This way I don't have to worry about tire-flung debris.

 

I don't have any of that **** now that JohnWag's shop space is gone.

 

Angle grinder = $10, cut off wheel = $3.

 

Have you experience any overheating of brakes yet? Not fade, but loss of peddle pressure to overheating. I sure did this past weekend - wondering if I need larger ducts like on your RB front bumper.

You've seen my oil cooler setup - just used snips and rivets - and it's attached to a bracket that's bolted to the frame. Making sure you'll have clearance for those baller 275s you'll eventually be using? Post the pics when you're done!

 

Show me your brake duct set-up. I just ripped mine out of that side and planned on switching to NACA ducts in the belly pan. I hope I didn't make a mistake.

I can't find pics of your oil cooler set up in your build thread.

 

They are buried in the 1st page, I used the oem holes in the clip for my brake ducts, but think they are too small for adequately cooling the TSE bbk - that, or I was overheating my rear sport brakes - had some heavy bias to the rear. Naca ducts seem the way to go

 

You were overheating the rear. What pads are you running?

What are your thoughts on doing NACA ducts on the belly pan? This worked on Matt's car a couple years ago. What does NACA duct flow/pressure look like compared to a scoop like I had in the bumper?

 

 

I was running DTC60s on the front AND rears (1.8 calipers on rear) - we seriously need vented rear rotors - but seems the V8 kit is the only way for now? Oh well.
As far as the ducting, I'd like to see some airflow comparisons in correlation to duct placement on the belly pan vs. front bumper. I would *assume* that front bumper placement is the way to go - where the pressure is the greatest - but I have assumed wrong many times before