Coming along with Lars' manifold. I already removed the T2 flange, taking a break to have a beer and post a pic.

More pics here:
Lars' failboat

This bitch is HEAVY.

 

That is looking really good.

 

OMG I need to change my shorts.

Tim you are awesome. How heavy do you think it is. Do you think some sort of brace might be needed?

 

A brace would be a good idea. I haven't thought about it much and don't know what it'd cost. I don't have the exact weight right now but it seems like at least twice the weight of the usual manifold I make.

I predict massive cracking in your future son!!

 

Lol

that is looking AWESOME.

Regarding bracing, what would happen if you put those bars back on? Would that not work because of heat expansion?

 

My god that is huge.

 

Those bars are my quickie build jig. I actually don't have build jigs for any manifold so I had to make one to be sure it put the turbo sorta where I wanted it (same place as the typical centered/low mount version of mine). I think doing horizontal bracing like that won't work as well as a brace from the top to support the weight. Perhaps from the valve cover like a crane. From underneath might be difficult due to the compressor being in the way. Remember this is getting a tial vband and MVS. And it needs to be done for some sort of meet you all are doing at the end of the month.

But HORRAY for prototypes. Your guesses are as good as mine as to what this will really do (performance or durability) once it's used hard. Andrew's manifold broke straight away and his MVS fell off, this might too. muhahhahaaa.

not funny.

 

Hit that **** with a wire wheel, have some dignity.

 

Can we let Tim at least finish welding the bitch together before it gets made all pretty?

 

 

Put him in a body bag johnny!

They should be wire wheeled prior to welding for maximum prettiness. But, per my sig, I'm lazy. Don't take that as a lack of pride in my work. I went back and forth. There's some in there that's polished then I was like...ehh **** I need to finish this thing. Sorry Lars. You can wire wheel it

 

How about I just heat cycle the **** out of it? I was never one to have to have the prettiest looking manifold.

 

I hit the top side with a wheel. It looked pretty until a few dozen hours of glrowing, now it just looks cool and hazy.

 

I seem to be missing something.

 

Looks like there's room for glory!

Is that rust on your block from that old problem you had?

Also, if I were you I would route that heater return the lonnnng way around the coldside. I'm going to do that myself to a) hide the hose a bit and b) get it away from the hotness more.

Oh oh oh and by the way did you move that stupid trans-frame ground strap from the frame onto the valve cover? I hate that ******.

 

I was happy when I got my new wastegate with the water ports and all the different springs, I was actually kinda surprised. I didnt know all that was included with the new wastegates, I just ordered it. I did a quick search on google and it seems like people say the water ports are useless and wont do anything. Then someone chimed in and said it was the Miata guys that where melting diaphragms and thats why they introduced the water cooled ones. I for sure am going to run mine with the lines hooked up, they're there might as well use them.

 

I'm sure it has more to do with their watercraft customers but whatev. Bonus for us!

 

The rust is from the first time the motor was built. I just did not clean it off. Maybe I will do that now that I am waiting on Tim.

That "heater core" line goes down to my lower coolant hose. It would be an absolute bitch to route it around the other side of the motor. It would have to do a 180 turn right as it leaves the head.

No I still have it going from the trans frame to the chassis.

Since it is water cooled I will run water to it. Will just be some extra lines.

 

Now I'm gonna have to look into this, personally I think its pretty damn cool and it is a bonus

 

While I'm happy after 3 years of me bitching to you you finally moved your heater core outlet back to where it belongs, but you need to take a length of hose, split it down the middle and slip it over the frame/metal to protect the hose from rubbing through.