I made a new line this morning and no oil leaks from it. I have found that my cylinder 2 coil is not firing though. So it runnings off 3 cylinders and actually feels almost normal like that. LS2 coils rock.

 

Yes when I made my fuel lines I had the teflon siliconeintakes.com line and I did it in the car. I turned on pump like histler and poured fuel all over my garage. It's amazing how much fuel dual bosch 044 can ecjauclate out in 5 seconds of priming.

Lars I think you should just run 3 cylinders and have a solid 190HP. Alternative is to try to hit that recalcitrant coil with a hammer.

 

I just swapped in a new coil and it was still running on 3 cylinders. So I swapped pigtails and wires around with cylinder 2 and 3 and bam it started running perfectly. So now to actually go drive the car and see how fun boost is again.


So after a quick drive I am still leaking oil. I think I just need to screw in my oil feed fitting a bit more. Once the car cools down I will be doing that.

 

Sweet. I made progress today too. Where do you get oil feed lines for your turbos? Sounds like you just made it yourself.

 

I bought mine from ebay. It works.

 

I got in my new lines from Bat Inc today. I installed them and tightened everything down. After running the car for a few minutes I noticed a small leak. I can not tell if it is coming from the upper or lower port of the wastegate, both looked dry and I could not feel the water. I took off the lines and made sure that the fittings were tight and then reinstalled the lines and it still leaked. At that point is was getting dark out so I called it a night. I will try tightening them all again in the morning and see if I can make the leak go away.



New lines.

 

I know you're taping the fire-sleeve ends, right?

 

Yes they will be taped. I was just test fitting and all today to make sure all the lines work. Tape will be done Saturday morning when I install the oil feed line. I want to make sure all the leaks are done and such before I finish everything for good.

 

So I had been DDing the car since mid January and it has been doing good, until last week. Sometimes my spark gives me issues and it seems like the car is running on 3 cylinders. If I jiggle around all my cheap ebay coil pigtails I can get it to start working. Also something happened with my water pump and it started leaking from around that area. My front and rear main seals are also leaking again.

Since all these things I have ordered parts to fix them all. I ordered the new FM cam alignment tool, rear main seal installing tool, and the front main seal installing tool. I also ordered all the random gaskets I need. To replace the cheap ebay coil pigtails I picked up 7 coils and pigtails off a corvette. I am planning swap the pigtails over this weekend while the car is apart.

Also since everything is apart I figured it is time to get an oil cooler installed. One of my good friends is into RX7's and grabbed me one of his old oil coolers. Since then I have picked up a spacer plate and most of my AN lines so far. I found a local hydraulic shop that carries Aroquip AN fittings and makes the lines for free. They are a bit more expensive then Bat Inc, but I can live with that with being able to get lines made same day.

Here is a picture of my oil plate adapter, oil cooler, and lines. Yes I know I am missing ends on the 2 lines. I have to figure out mounting and what fittings I need on the other side and the lengths on the lines. Once I get that figured out this weekend I will run back up to the store and have them cut the lines to length and put on the ends.

 

Will you have all this done for the Mitty? Looking forward to seeing it!

 

What is this about more boost?

 

I am planning on having it done before an Autox on the 24th of this month. I want to say it will for sure be at the Mitty, but with my luck who knows.

I have turned it back up to 15-17psi and enjoying it a bit. Unfortunately since I have had leaks I have been trying to stay out of boost.

 

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Enjoying 3xxhp?

 

So the past few days I have been out working slowly on my car.

I spent a good amount of time trying to figure out where I was going to mount the oil cooler. The thing is massive. At first I was trying to figure out how to mount it to my steering rack. I was unsuccessful at figuring out an easy way to do it. Next I pulled my hood latch and tried it there. It seemed to fit, but I was not sure about that without attaching the lines. So in anticipation I ordered some Aerocatch locking hood pins so I did not need my stock hood latch. After attaching lines today I found it would not fit there. So I started searching on here. This is a picture I found of how thesnowboarder mounted his rx-7 oil cooler.

I decided to give that way a try. After removing everything in the way it turned out to be easy to do. I am planning on having the top fitting a 120-degree fitting to angle the hose down more. I also will probably use straight fitting on the end of the bottom one instead of a 90-degree fitting.

My 2 mounts for right now. I plan on going back to the hardware store tomorrow and getting more L brackets. I want the oil cooler connected in 4 spots.

This is what it looks like with the bumper on. You can hardly tell it is even there. We will see how well it does cooling.


Tomorrow I plan on taking off my intake manifold and installing the oil spacer. Then I will figure out exactly how long i need my lines made. I will also be installing my new TSE freeze plug and plate on the front of my head. I will also put in new cam seals and reinstall my timing belt. On Monday I will go get the oil lines finished. Then just to wait on the machine shop to finish my valve cover.

 

Looks great dude. Nice job. Are you running a sensor sandwich plate too?

 

I am using a glow shift adapter plate and counting on the thermostat in the oil cooler to work.

 

So one sandwich plate for sensors and another for oil cooler right?

 

TSB copied me on the oil cooler location. The black car runs ~240*F oil temps in 100*F weather at full boogie.



FYI, a 90* M18x1.5 -10AN hose end does exist. It's unreasonably expensive (~$60 shipped) but it only protrudes up by ~1" or so. If you mount the cooler a hair lower you can just use a 90* fitting, but NB guys who want to run the same cooler will be required to use the baller fitting.

 

very very very nice! and i hate leaks limiting your driving!

 

Why cant you flip the cooler 180 so the fitting points down instead? Saves buying more parts surely?