COP Thread
Yup, the one sitting all the one in back right next to the ignition coil pack standing straight up. If you believe the color coding it has exactly what we need:
gnd - black
12v - white/black
tr14 - brn/ylw
tr23 - brn
In the wiring diagrams it looks like the white/black wire feeds the main relay's coil, but nothing else. I guess it's a pretty easy test if the main relay still works after unplugging the connector. My setup used the connectors off the coil packs with the resin removed, but it's hard to get my hands back there to unplug those connectors. It would be nice getting one of those connectors...
gnd - black
12v - white/black
tr14 - brn/ylw
tr23 - brn
In the wiring diagrams it looks like the white/black wire feeds the main relay's coil, but nothing else. I guess it's a pretty easy test if the main relay still works after unplugging the connector. My setup used the connectors off the coil packs with the resin removed, but it's hard to get my hands back there to unplug those connectors. It would be nice getting one of those connectors...
I wonder then why everyone who has that plug there didnt use it for the coils. Certainly easier to cut there then at the coils.
edit: I looked at the madracki diagrams, they didnt show much but that could be the place where the +12v splits for the main relay and engine fuse. I guess as long as you cut after it, then it can be useable. I could be wrong.
edit: I looked at the madracki diagrams, they didnt show much but that could be the place where the +12v splits for the main relay and engine fuse. I guess as long as you cut after it, then it can be useable. I could be wrong.
Last edited by Saml01; Feb 20, 2008 at 12:11 PM.
Is anyone using high-temp rated wire like TXL/GXL for these? If so, where did you source your wire?
And what's the consensus on wire gauge? If so, how did you arrive at that number?
And what's the consensus on wire gauge? If so, how did you arrive at that number?
Just use whatever the ignition coils have running to them. Probably 18 gauge will be plenty. At least thats what im gonna be using, I dont want to go buy another 4 spools of wire for like 2 feet worth of wiring.
#18 is fine for triggers.
If you're really worried about not buying larger wire, use two strands of 18 awg in parallel fashion to act as larger wire. It should still fit in crimp pins just fine.
if you know any electricians just score some wire from them, they are usually pretty cool guys
my brother in-law gives me the hook ups, pretty much and kind of wire i want FREE
but i used 12ga for power/ground and 16ga i believe for trigger/tach
my brother in-law gives me the hook ups, pretty much and kind of wire i want FREE
but i used 12ga for power/ground and 16ga i believe for trigger/tach
Ok, I'll look for some 12ga, that's about what I calculated I'd need to carry the current with minimum drop, it just seemed like others were going with smaller.
Is there any worry about heat on top of the motor? I see some of you running split-loom and I'm amazed that hasn't melted. Maybe I'm just a fanatic, but if I had easy access to TXL/GXL, I'd be running that.
Is there any worry about heat on top of the motor? I see some of you running split-loom and I'm amazed that hasn't melted. Maybe I'm just a fanatic, but if I had easy access to TXL/GXL, I'd be running that.
12 ga? The wire feeding the coil stock is 1/10th the size. Seems like a lot of overkill. Very much the same concept as putting a 6.5" downpipe on your turbo, feeding a 2.25" exhaust. Not to mention it's like doing it on a 150 hp car.
I'd shoot for something in the ballpark of the same size Toyota used. No smaller, but around there.
I'd shoot for something in the ballpark of the same size Toyota used. No smaller, but around there.
Really, toyota runs them off VERY small wires. They wouldn't spend the kind of money it takes to develop a COP system with warranties and all the rest, then use wires like that.
12 guage wire is rated for 41 amps.
FOURTY ONE AMPS. Are you kidding? 1 milliohm per foot.
20 guage is rated for 11 amps, and it would take 1000 feet of it to total only ten ohms of resistance. And that's 11 amps continuous.
Do what you will, but I stick by my advice. Use what toyota used.

See the wires coming out of the coil? They are PUNY. See the giant ground strap I have? It's 16 guage, and the toyota wires would fit inside of the insulation of that with room to spare. Spend your time/money/etc on heat sheilding.
12 guage wire is rated for 41 amps.
FOURTY ONE AMPS. Are you kidding? 1 milliohm per foot.
20 guage is rated for 11 amps, and it would take 1000 feet of it to total only ten ohms of resistance. And that's 11 amps continuous.
Do what you will, but I stick by my advice. Use what toyota used.

See the wires coming out of the coil? They are PUNY. See the giant ground strap I have? It's 16 guage, and the toyota wires would fit inside of the insulation of that with room to spare. Spend your time/money/etc on heat sheilding.
12 ga? The wire feeding the coil stock is 1/10th the size. Seems like a lot of overkill. Very much the same concept as putting a 6.5" downpipe on your turbo, feeding a 2.25" exhaust. Not to mention it's like doing it on a 150 hp car.
I'd shoot for something in the ballpark of the same size Toyota used. No smaller, but around there.
I'd shoot for something in the ballpark of the same size Toyota used. No smaller, but around there.
But if whats running in the car is less then what you plan to run for that 12 inches, what difference will it make? Imagine it like feeding a firehose with a straw.
ok, my confusion has been in the AWG table, whether this is considered power transmission or chassis wiring. i'm not an EE, I don't know the difference.
i finally got time to pull the coils. damn those things are packed back in there. yeah, the OE wiring is really tiny.
I think I have enough 18awg lying around to do it.
Thanks all.
i finally got time to pull the coils. damn those things are packed back in there. yeah, the OE wiring is really tiny.
I think I have enough 18awg lying around to do it.
Thanks all.






