Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
Elite Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,298
Total Cats: 884
From: Santa Clara, CA
IIRC the torque spec is pretty close to the factory one.
Yes, you are "supposed" to line bore with the main studs. OTOH, lots of people here on mt.net use ARP main studs without doing it and AFAIK nobody has reported problems. I've done it twice now, no issues.
--Ian
Yes, you are "supposed" to line bore with the main studs. OTOH, lots of people here on mt.net use ARP main studs without doing it and AFAIK nobody has reported problems. I've done it twice now, no issues.
--Ian
Reply
0
0
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Fuckit. I'm running ebay rods. Line boring is for pussies.
YOLO
Reply
0
0
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Just edit the first post to include a link to the start of the other part of the build.
Glad to have you back Vlad, you have been missed.
Glad to have you back Vlad, you have been missed.
Reply
0
0
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Annnd scope is creeping. We're quickly approaching and passing the $5k budget.
Is the crank pulley needed for balancing? I'm really not sure about the balancing. I personally think its a waste of money.
Reply
0
0
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Don't really care about cool. As of know I'll plan to skip it. This is still supposed to be a budget build.
Knock that and the damper off for now.
Damper can be added later when I turn up the boost on track.
Brings the budget back down to where I wanted to be.
Knock that and the damper off for now.
Damper can be added later when I turn up the boost on track.
Brings the budget back down to where I wanted to be.
Reply
0
0
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Balancing is $225. But I believe you should also have your crank pulley when its balanced. Which I probably wont have when the engine is built
Reply
0
0
I'd do the balancing, I did it on my current motor, one of the best things I did while it was apart. I'll never skip balancing a I4 again. Installing not-stock rods and pistons will mess up the balance so it's going to vibrate if you don't do it. Granted I did that many times and it worked, but it is wayyyy smoother now that it's balanced. That means less loading on the bottom end as well, which would be good for a motor you plan to track. I'd skip powder coating and do balancing.
Reply
0
0
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
Lol I totally forgot I had powdercoating on there. I can do that later for sure.
Ok, this is looking good. Leaves me a couple hundred to dyno, and the usual couple hundred in bits and pieces.
Ok, this is looking good. Leaves me a couple hundred to dyno, and the usual couple hundred in bits and pieces.
Reply
0
0
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 153
Total Cats: -84
From: Canton, GA
I'd do the balancing, I did it on my current motor, one of the best things I did while it was apart. I'll never skip balancing a I4 again. Installing not-stock rods and pistons will mess up the balance so it's going to vibrate if you don't do it. Granted I did that many times and it worked, but it is wayyyy smoother now that it's balanced. That means less loading on the bottom end as well, which would be good for a motor you plan to track. I'd skip powder coating and do balancing.
Best part of balancing is no more hardware backing out/loosening constantly, and less potential for cracks on the manifold. But, I assume you might have already paid $100 for 4 exhaust studs per everyone's doing. Maybe not as beneficial to you.
Reply
-1
-1
