You don't use a torque wrench of any kind on rods, you use a rod bolt stretch gauge.



For mains, I use a beam-type to calibrate my click-type. There's a particular size of 12-point SAE socket that fits a 1/2" square drive. Put that on one torque wrench and put the other in the 12-point end, set the click-type to break at your desired value and twist the beam-type against it. Observe the value when it breaks, and adjust the click-type until it's consistently breaking at the value you want. Then use the click-type to torque the mains. (in 3 or 4 steps).



--Ian

 

Ian. Do you happen to know someone with one of those gauges?...

 

Mmmm meat

 

Indeed. Mine has spent more of its life in E02K & gesso's garages than in mine though.

--Ian

 

I built my motor with a cheap beam type wrench, you can do it too!!

I think it is way more important to re-torque all the fasteners several times (several torque cycles)

http://www.jegs.com/PDFs/ARPAssemblyLube.pdf

 

I literally bought beam torque wrenches while reading your build thread.

This is going to end up embarrassingly like yours. Twin disc, wittyworks manifold, 6758. Maybe I'll beat you to VVT.

 

I have one you can use. Fits in a small flat rate.

 

I'll let you know ryan. I asked Ian because we had already talked about borrowing his.

 

Is the one listed for the RX7/G8C Subaru the correct one? That part looks like a really nice find and I'm considering buying one.

for NPT avoidance.

 

No thats the wrong one.

Wrong one: An 6 Fuel Rail Adapter Mazda FD3S RX7 Series 6 | eBay

Right one: An 6 6 JIC Fuel Rail Adapter Toyota 4EFTE EP Starlet 4AGZE 4AGE | eBay

I think. I haven't received the right one yet.

 

Thanks, I was about to pull the trigger on the first one so yay for saving me $$$. I'll probably just wait for you to pave the way while I'm still gathering parts

 

The seller was very helpful, and gave me a US address to return it to. So I'm not out too much money.

I should know next week sometime. Customs takes a while.

You can get blue ones all over ebay. But some of those are wrong too.

For the miata you need this drawing (I believe):

 

Manifold is welded up. Off to the touge.

 

Managed to slip my twin disc real bad tonight twice on some launches. Wonder if it has anything to do with this:

Oh well. Still doesn't slip at full boost. I'll run it for the rest of the season and pull it to check the discs.

@emilio700 any updates on the organic replacement discs? I would love to send you some money for a set.

 

Probably overheated it after a few launches? I've done that many times myself. If that's all you did, it will be fine after you put a few regular miles of driving on it and it cools off.

 

FIrst launch of the night. With like 180ft/lbs. On a supposed 4-500ft/lbs clutch.

 

I am taking it easy until next Wednesday.

 

What alternator do I need for a 1.8. Can I put the grooved pulley on my FC alternator? If not, anyone want an FC alternator for cheap?

 

I think I either need to swap pulleys. Or find an FD alternator.

 

Welds are looking really good.