I think you need more turbo.

 

Old engine is out, cleaning up some wiring tomorrow. Need to get the valve cover and water inlet welded, might be done next weekend. I'm trying to decide how much energy I want to spend on cleaning-up wiring.

I'm giving serious consideratinon to doing the water return on the hot side.

 

Por que?

 

negative space.

 

Somewhere, a man named Hyper had a brief but sudden feeling of joy, quickly dissipating to his usual self-loathing.

 

Just completed 75% of the wiring. Gotta do coils and VVT solenoid and I'm going to run it on the charcoal can purge valve wiring. Any tips for getting a crank bolt loose with the engine out of the car and no engine stand? Since this is a 10k mile engine I'm a little temped to leave the OEM damper and timing belt on there.

 

10k miles? Just make sure everything is tight, and leave it alone.

 

If you have ant metal bars laying around make a tool. looks like this


drill a few holes in it to match up to your pulley. win.


edit: im feeling extra artsy today.

 

Impact gun.

 

Supermiata damper means I have to make something for the flywheel to lock onto.

 

you have or know anyone with a nice sized strap wrench? Although I think the torque may just be a little too much for a strap wrench :(

 

Thread in a transmission bolt, then use something to jam against one of the flywheel teeth. Preferably something softer than the teeth. Like a piece of aluminum.

Although I've used a steel bolt, I wouldn't suggest it to you cause I'd know you'd fret about it.

 

The whole engine flops around, I guess I'm not doing the timing belt, lol.

 

Quoted for posterity.

 

Any thoughts on LS1 coils vs VVT coils? I have both, VVT coils are clearly the easier route, not sure if there is a performance gain with the LS1 coils.

 

This may be hard to explain. If your still looking to get the crank bolt loose, I had this issue a while back on a 22RE.

1 Place a long, strong metal rod on the ground. 6' pry bar would be perfect.

2 Place a tire on the bar, in rim is preferred.

3 Place engine on tire.

4 Take 1" webbing or rope (webbing is best) and wrap it around the crank pulley many times in a clock wise direction.

5 Tie other end of webbing to long, strong metal rod under tire. Keep the distance as short as possible.

6 Hit the crank bolt with impact gun or breaker bar. It will cinch up on the webbing and pull it tight against the bar under the tire preventing it from spinning. A second set of hands to steady the engine is helpful.

7 ???

8 Profit.

 

I have no empirical data to support this statement but:

LS1 coil performance gain at 150whp N/A, I seriously doubt it...

Keep it simple stupid

 

I'm still on the fents about the headgasket.

 

99 head gasket + reroute or just the gasket?

 

99 gasket and reroute. I need to make the decision in the next hour.