Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
It appears that way but I have ~100% additional fuel in cranking PW adder and 70% in ASE. It shouldn't drop like that, it should squirt some fuel.
I'm waiting on directions to burn firmware, not sure if I can use the general MS2 files since everything is different from the standard computer.
I'm waiting on directions to burn firmware, not sure if I can use the general MS2 files since everything is different from the standard computer.
wait for rev, but im sure its the same.
but it seems your MAP sensor is doing something really screwy...the nostart2 log shows you sitting at 60kPa when it's not running, then increasing to 80kPa when cranking. It's throwing your baro enrichments off, but those readings dont make sense.
but it seems your MAP sensor is doing something really screwy...the nostart2 log shows you sitting at 60kPa when it's not running, then increasing to 80kPa when cranking. It's throwing your baro enrichments off, but those readings dont make sense.
I'm curious if they'll take it on. I talked to them last year about some DSM stuff and they basically told me that they have enough K-Series Honda stuff to keep them busy and had no interest in taking my money.
Not that I blame them. I'm just saying.
Not that I blame them. I'm just saying.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
- Save my money and send the engine to Endyne for a fancy $3000 engine?
- Keep the 11.5:1 pistons and knife-edged -8.5lb crank? ($1000 in work)
- buy $500 10.5:1 pistons and $400 7mm longer China-rods?
- buy 10.5:1 Supertechs and bullnose a stock crank?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I talked to Larry last week, he likes me.
what is wrong with replacing rings, re-seating valves (possibly replacing too if they're really bent), freshening up whatever else and calling it a day?
why must you always take the longest most expensive approach at things then bitch and moan for months about how terrible everything is?
I mean its an n/a miata, I realize its a track car but wtf is wrong with not doing all those fancy things? like 10-15hp?
I guess I just don't get it. Maybe I just don't understand..if you wanted to build a badass f20c or k20a or anything that's not a turd like our BP, I'd understand....
why must you always take the longest most expensive approach at things then bitch and moan for months about how terrible everything is?
I mean its an n/a miata, I realize its a track car but wtf is wrong with not doing all those fancy things? like 10-15hp?
I guess I just don't get it. Maybe I just don't understand..if you wanted to build a badass f20c or k20a or anything that's not a turd like our BP, I'd understand....
yeah what's so special about your crank that you can't just re-ring existing pistons?
other than it's knife-edged.
also lol @ buying a used build engine and having to rebuild it a few months later.
other than it's knife-edged.
also lol @ buying a used build engine and having to rebuild it a few months later.
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 574
From: Fake Virginia
*jots down mental note to never become business partners with hustler*
what is wrong with replacing rings, re-seating valves (possibly replacing too if they're really bent), freshening up whatever else and calling it a day?
why must you always take the longest most expensive approach at things then bitch and moan for months about how terrible everything is?
I mean its an n/a miata, I realize its a track car but wtf is wrong with not doing all those fancy things? like 10-15hp?
I guess I just don't get it. Maybe I just don't understand..if you wanted to build a badass f20c or k20a or anything that's not a turd like our BP, I'd understand....
why must you always take the longest most expensive approach at things then bitch and moan for months about how terrible everything is?
I mean its an n/a miata, I realize its a track car but wtf is wrong with not doing all those fancy things? like 10-15hp?
I guess I just don't get it. Maybe I just don't understand..if you wanted to build a badass f20c or k20a or anything that's not a turd like our BP, I'd understand....
This. If you spend more than 3 digits to get this ****** fixed, you did it horribly wrong.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
You're using a stock bottom end, right? Throw another piston (or 4 in there if you want to get fancy) in with some new rings and have a nice day.
Trust me, i perfectly understand the want to make things fancy and complicated, and the effects of "Project Creep," but that completely defeats the purpose of this particular build ASSuming i've understood the intent of it.
You want something cheap and reliable to run at the track to maximize seat time. At what point does "$3000 built n/a BP" make sense?
Trust me, i perfectly understand the want to make things fancy and complicated, and the effects of "Project Creep," but that completely defeats the purpose of this particular build ASSuming i've understood the intent of it.
You want something cheap and reliable to run at the track to maximize seat time. At what point does "$3000 built n/a BP" make sense?
You're using a stock bottom end, right? Throw another piston (or 4 in there if you want to get fancy) in with some new rings and have a nice day.
Trust me, i perfectly understand the want to make things fancy and complicated, and the effects of "Project Creep," but that completely defeats the purpose of this particular build ASSuming i've understood the intent of it.
You want something cheap and reliable to run at the track to maximize seat time. At what point does "$3000 built n/a BP" make sense?
Trust me, i perfectly understand the want to make things fancy and complicated, and the effects of "Project Creep," but that completely defeats the purpose of this particular build ASSuming i've understood the intent of it.
You want something cheap and reliable to run at the track to maximize seat time. At what point does "$3000 built n/a BP" make sense?

I swear i saw another set of those pistons around for $200. I'll try to find them.
Any particular reason to not just put a stock 10:1 bottom end in that thing to get your cheap seat time IF the piston ends up being bad and it's not just rings?








