I would tend to agree with this. Idle seems smoother, throttle response seems crisper and it makes a huge difference with large injectors. I think it's better all around. It seemed to make a noticeable difference.

 

I can't really make my mind up. I have MS1 on the car now, it runs great, I have no complaints. The only concern is the reason the intake valves burnt and was it because of wet-out? If the answer is no, I don't really see any reason to do it and that's $700 I could put toward a 949 clutch.

I have a Reverant MS2 coming, and I'm more interested in hyper-mileing my daily with it.

What would you do if you had MS1 and it was running dare I say "perfectly"?

 

I would ******* leave that **** as it is and stop wacking the ***** over tech specs.

BTW regarding WI yes you will lose power with any water unless you drop fuel or raise timing. In your case you don't need more timing. I guess you could up the boost a little bit to compensate for the power loss. Note that you won't need to spray very much and btw the AEM **** is actually quite good and cheap too. You should still reference the wi to kpa otherwise just don't ******* bother.

 

i think i didn't say enough "*******" in that post.

 

I agree. If you have decent injectors I would not worry about it, especially for a track oriented car. When you are making lots of power the injector is open for such a long time (say 60-80% DC) that sequential will not matter anyway since most of the fuel is spraying when the valve is shut. It is a bigger deal for idle and emissions, which you do not care about for the track car, but do care about for the street car.

So I would keep the MS1 in the track car and use the funds for the clutch (or tires). I think you will gain much more awesomeness that way.

Fuckity ******* **** ************ ****-me *******-****. There, that is enough F-bombs now. I just motherfucking carpet bombed the **** out of that ******* **** yo, ******* Vietnam B-52 bomber dead motherfucking viet-kong style. **** yeah.

 

seq. spark.

 

****. OK. **** that sequential spark **** too. Same deal IMO. More bang for the buck in tires or a clutch. LBJ and McNamara would be ******* proud of all these motherfucking bombs yo.

 

All of the MS2s in the group buy have sequential INJECTION as standard; 90-93 units are "sequential injection ready", meaning they will run batch injection out of the box until you setup your injector harness for sequential. Obviously enough, I highly recommend sequential injection.

I was talking about sequential IGNITION in my previous post.

 

My bad, apologies.

 

On a track only car, without having to worry about running huge injectors, needing any extra features or compensating for A/C or electrical load with PID idle control, I'd probably leave it. You can always get a MS2 or MS3 later when its economically feasible. You'll probably get more out of it on the daily anyway as far as driveability and economy.

I kinda miss my Old MS1 setup it was a much simpler time and it ran great the way it was. The money might be better spent on a clutch now or tires or brakes down the road.

 

Leave it alone you dont need teething problems going to, racing, and driving home from NOLA. The valve was a freak bad one anyways, isn't that what your builder said?

 

What kind of over-rev protection will a 56lb valve spring get me? This is about to become a $1200 head, lol. Hopefully this will be the last time I do this.

 

None? we don't have an interference motor. i've over revved my motor a few times with stock springs, no issue. like wayyyy over rev.

so did you even have a burnt valve? why would you have one and i or 100 other turbo track miata's don't?

 

I just got off the phone with the machinist after hot tanking and doing other stuff to the head and he says the intake valves are bent. I've missed a couple shifts, but never really "zinged" the engine. There was also that time the throttle stuck wide open in 5th from the melted throttle cable.

Anyway, Supertech single springs are on the way from 949, Supertech SS valves are going in, and I just spent about $1000 and won't have much to show for it other than reliability. I hesitated on the SS valves, but at least one of my valves was clearly eroded from something. I guess this is the name of the game when you drive the car to and from the track.

 

I wonder if I need to tune this car again? I'm gussing the big leak means I'm not making as much cylinder pressure at combustion. Hmmmm.

Also, I wonder if I'll pick up any power with the good valves?

 

Glad we could get you those valves in time and slightly cheaper than new. lap lap lap.

 

Any thoughts on tight 90* fittings for the heat core so I can use straight hoses instead of rubber **** from the autoparts store?

 

OK, braided nylon hose or SS hose for the fuel lines? Speak now, I need to order today.

Thanks.

 

Whichever one you can afford. Make sure the braided hose is fuel compatible of course.

 

I haven't see one that's not fuel compatible. I wonder if I can get one of this compression-ferrule fittings on the stock FPR?