this boys and girls is why you keep a clean shop and dont leave sheet metal next to walk ways where it can attack you.
it required stitches... i didnt get any


so i cleaned


i then sought revenge












i cut it slightly over sized and bent the edges up for a little structure and so the sharp edges dont bite the car.



just ziptied in there




i didnt have time to get this done before my last track day and i just took my chances. 35 miles to the track and 100+ miles on track and no major dings. i drove home and dont bother/forget to check. while i was making my pattern i noticed this.


its not leaking, but the tube is pushed back farther than the pic shows. probably 1/4"+. i was thinking of hitting it with some solder just as a preventative measure. thoughts?

 

Just go turbo intercooler will protect that

 

lots of boxes arrived this week, sans 1.5" band clamps i have everything sitting in my kitchen i need. its killing me, but i really want finish out the season as im not confident enough that i can do the whole swap and tune in between events.

that should make a good down pipe


this would have worked great as a transmission mounted downpipe bracket... if i had purchased the proper size


izaak cant stand the excitement either

 

In for pictures of downpipe bracket, I stared at mine this weekend for 15 minutes and couldn't come up with anything I liked.

 

im combining bobs and hustlers ideas for track robustnesses.

might be overbuilt for what im doing (might not) but i dont want to have to **** with things after its built.
ideasa came from a few threads
https://www.miataturbo.net/flyin-mia...t-brace-43572/

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...-doesnt-62045/

 

to summarize:
attach bracket to tranny, preferably close-ish to the bellhousing, PPF works to i guess. clamp exhaust to bracket with a band clamp to spread to load. flex joint downstream of bracket, no more than a foot IMO. then limit side to side movement of the post flex exhaust with a strap(mounted to my rear subframe brace im thinking).

 

Link to band clamp? I already bought the U-bolt clamp but the band clamp might be easier to work with.

 

Summit, Jegs, Zone, O'Reilly's . . . they're literally everywhere.

Props on the grill. Looks great and sweet revenge! I'm going to build one too. I've got carnage on my radiator similar to yours. If I don't do something my radiator will someday get punctured at the track and everyone will hate me for black flagging a session. I'd rather be hated for passing them in a Miata. LOL.

 

I've had a tough morning, I just wanted spoon feeding

 

the reviews say the summit brand stretches and loosens, i got a walker
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...rder=Ascending

 

I used the same bend for my downpipe, worked great. I've been needing to make a downpipe strap though, I'll have to try something like that.

 

Pshhh, high mount peasants over here I only have 2 90s in mine.

 

with my turbo flange adapter, i might need more than 90 to clear the engine bay shelf, i ordered the 120 just in case. then 2, 45s like the MKturbo kit shuiend does, but mine will be divorced.

 

i haz 2 questions


what is the recommended tire pressure starting point for 205s on 9s? specifically rivals? the only post i found said 26psi cold. i know i should probably get a pyrometer, but founds allow for either a track day, or a tool, not both. maybe some day.

oil consumption recently quadrupled, at least. kind of just out of no where too. we are using a quart+ every track day which i calculated to be 160 miles on average. it used to be a quart every thousand miles maybe, which was a mix of street and track. given these circumstances, i assume the most likely culprit to be valve seals? im going to try and do a comp test today.

 

Search for leaks too. My oil consumption went down to almost none with a new head gasket. I'm losing a teeny bit out of the valve cover.

 

0 drips or drops from this car on a pristine driveway. it sits still for weeks-months at a time between track days, with no loss of oil as evidenced by the dipstick. its definitely a dynamic condition.

also, black soot on the bumper, that will return astonishingly quick after i scrub it off with a solvent.

edit: the CAS started weeping a while ago too.

 

1.8 time?

 

if it comes to that, yes. if its just seals, probably not.

 

Tight radius near "kink" on my turbo water line caused the crimp at the banjo to leak. Now I'm looking for the 12x1.25 to 11mm barb, same as what you used. Did anyone ever come up with a commercial version, cause I cannot find anything.

 

i looked hard for a good while, i dont think they exist. the only other option i found was banjo to barb. or AN