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Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection

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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #461  
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Originally Posted by soviet
No, that means you have a 360* window for the CMP.
Just wait a day I'll confirm that my **** works then I'll post a picture of what teeth to cut off.
You had me at "180* window".
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 07:06 PM
  #462  
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Originally Posted by hustler
How do I check my work without blowing-up the car?
Unplug injectors, have someone crank while you strobe the crank to check timing.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 09:07 PM
  #463  
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Originally Posted by Ben
Unplug injectors, have someone crank while you strobe the crank to check timing.
Any thoughts on where the single-tooth needs to drop in respect to the crank and tooth spacing?
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 09:19 PM
  #464  
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you just need to rotate the CAS so that tooth #1 on your 12-1 wheel is the first tooth to pass the crank sensor after the cam sensor reads the single tooth.
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 09:38 PM
  #465  
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Is this the promise land?

then, I just go to the tooth-logger and count the number of teeth and make sure the CMP is dropping just before tooth #1, right? In my case, that's 2-teeth after the space, right?


So the CMP needs to drop between teeth 2 and 3?

Logger should look like:
___________ . __________________.___________________.___________ _______.__________
|_|_|_|_|__|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|__|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_ |_|_|__|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|__|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_
Attached Thumbnails Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-vej62.png   Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-lwvc1.png  

Last edited by hustler; Sep 26, 2012 at 09:53 PM.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 08:16 AM
  #466  
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Originally Posted by hustler
Any thoughts on where the single-tooth needs to drop in respect to the crank and tooth spacing?
Shown in painful detail in the manual:
MS2-Extra Dual Wheel Manual
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 09:21 AM
  #467  
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this might help:





i believe that's correct.
Attached Thumbnails Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-wheel_setup.jpg  
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:03 AM
  #468  
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Originally Posted by Ben
Shown in painful detail in the manual:
MS2-Extra Dual Wheel Manual
I've read that, it never speaks to where the CMP sensor should drop on a -1 CKP wheel.

Originally Posted by Braineack
this might help:





i believe that's correct.
Meow that is something I can understand.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:11 AM
  #469  
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Originally Posted by hustler
I've read that, it never speaks to where the CMP sensor should drop on a -1 CKP wheel.
yes it does:

Tooth #1 is the first tooth to pass the main sensor after the single tooth has passed the second sensor


edit: aw crap, that's the non-missing tooth chart. let me re-read and update the wheel if needed.


acutally, looks like it doesnt matter as long as they dont overlap:

With a missing-tooth main wheel, the missing tooth provides the main position reference to the Megasquirt. The cam signal should occur away (not co-incident with) the missing tooth, the exact angle is irrelevant, so long as they NEVER overlap.
that's even easier.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:21 AM
  #470  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
that's even easier.
That's what I tried, (quite badly I might add), to say before. The cam position signal can go anywhere really just as long as it doesn't cross the missing tooth.

You basically have almost a full crank revolution to play with.

Hustler, you're making this much harder than it really is
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:25 AM
  #471  
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Miataturbo built my hot poz rod.

So basically, my process is:
  1. Set engine at TDC
  2. Rotate crank 360*
  3. Make sure CMP/CAS tooth crosses pick-up in the next 300* (missing tooth area reduces CMP window by 60*)
  4. pull the plugs, flood clear, look at the logs, ask MT if it's okay to crank
  5. win at HPDE
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:25 AM
  #472  
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you have to use a 2nd grader reading level for him. that's why pictures are helpful.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:33 AM
  #473  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
I sit down to make #1.
We know. Keep this kind of **** out of my thread. I've contacted the internet police, consequences will never be the same.


But seriously, thanks for all the help. I will buy you beers next time I go to the liberal bee-hive of DC.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:35 AM
  #474  
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Absoltuely come back and visit, DC is not the same without you, even but for a week.

Last edited by Braineack; Sep 27, 2012 at 10:48 AM.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:54 AM
  #475  
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Treyvon Lmk when you go to DC because I'm trying to plan my trip up there soon.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:56 AM
  #476  
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in for 3way harmonica
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 11:11 AM
  #477  
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Originally Posted by pusha
Treyvon Lmk when you go to DC because I'm trying to plan my trip up there soon.
Sorry, my phone isn't working that day. lolol
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 11:23 AM
  #478  
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Originally Posted by hustler
I've read that, it never speaks to where the CMP sensor should drop on a -1 CKP wheel.
For realzies?


Originally Posted by teh manual
With a missing-tooth main wheel, the missing tooth provides the main position reference to the Megasquirt. The cam signal should occur away (not co-incident with) the missing tooth, the exact angle is irrelevant, so long as they NEVER overlap.

Originally Posted by teh manual



Attached Thumbnails Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-trey-1.jpg   Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-trey-2.jpg   Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-trey-3.jpg  
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 11:43 AM
  #479  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
omfg, three slim spade connectors and one small tube of expoy and this could have been solved a long time agao.
Originally Posted by Leafy
Sounds like something Fae would do.

Actually. What I would do is make it my bitch. Witness and learn:


I would dremel off the female plastic surrounding the prongs.

Then I would solder wires onto each prong, and heatshrink each wire.

Then I would heatshrink all three of the prongs together (yes i have big heatshrink 8x shrink too)

Then I would junkyard a nice small 3 prong connector, both male and female.

Then I would solder the connector bitch onto the wires on both sides and fluff my *****.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 11:44 AM
  #480  
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This is what I didn't understand from the manual, now I do. I wasn't sure how or where to enter that CMP angle, now I realize that I don't enter it anywhere.



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