Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection

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Sep 27, 2012 | 11:48 AM

#481

Ben

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From: atlanta-ish

Quote:

Originally Posted by Faeflora

Actually. What I would do is make it my bitch. Witness and learn:

I would dremel off the female plastic surrounding the prongs.

Then I would solder wires onto each prong, and heatshrink each wire.

Then I would heatshrink all three of the prongs together (yes i have big heatshrink 8x shrink too)

Then I would junkyard a nice small 3 prong connector, both male and female.

Then I would solder the connector bitch onto the wires on both sides and fluff my *****.

I'd not dremel anything. Solder wires to the pins, then fill the cavity with epoxy. Then crimp a weatherpack or similar connector to the pigtail you just created.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hustler

This is what I didn't understand from the manual, now I do. I wasn't sure how or where to enter that CMP angle, now I realize that I don't enter it anywhere.

Make sure you set the engine to TDC #1 compression when setting the cam sync tooth.

Another option is to not cut a tooth from the crank wheel and follow the dual wheel / non missing tooth instructions.

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Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-delphi1.jpg

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Quote:

Originally Posted by concealer404

Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.

Sep 27, 2012 | 11:48 AM

#482

Braineack

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From: Chantilly, VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by hustler

This is what I didn't understand from the manual, now I do. I wasn't sure how or where to enter that CMP angle, now I realize that I don't enter it anywhere.

Never had to setup a trigger wheel, so never learned how to do it. We've all learned something today, and grow stronger as men; and that's all the matters.

Sep 27, 2012 | 12:01 PM

#483

hustler

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From: Republic of Dallas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben

I'm only going to turn-it forward to no loosen the crank bolt.

That makes more sense now, but the tooth is already gone. :(

Hopefully I don't have to take the crank back off because I'm running the TSE wheel and did not install the spacer-ring.

Does anyone have tips for lining-up the CKP hall sensor? It seem like I can mount it as close or as far away from the crank as I want and I'm not sure what the distance needs to be.

Sep 27, 2012 | 12:05 PM

#484

18psi

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I usually stick a flathead screwdriver between the tip of the tooth and tip of sensor then tighten, and that amount of distance is perfect 100% of the time.

Sep 27, 2012 | 12:08 PM

#485

hustler

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From: Republic of Dallas

wtf?
Bongo Trigger Wheel

Sep 27, 2012 | 12:09 PM

#486

Braineack

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From: Chantilly, VA

that's what she said.

Sep 27, 2012 | 12:16 PM

#487

Faeflora

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben

I'd not dremel anything. Solder wires to the pins, then fill the cavity with epoxy. Then crimp a weatherpack or similar connector to the pigtail you just created.

Ben, I have tried to do this but have difficulty getting the iron down in the hole without burning the shiz out of the connector and flowing the solder where it doesn't belong. Yes this is with a thin tipped weller.

Sep 27, 2012 | 12:18 PM

#488

Braineack

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From: Chantilly, VA

that's why you pre-tin both the pins and the wires...

Sep 27, 2012 | 12:20 PM

#489

Leafy

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From: NH

Quote:

Originally Posted by Faeflora

Yes this is with a thin tipped weller.

I dont want to hear about your thin tipped weller.

Sep 27, 2012 | 03:20 PM

#490

shuiend

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From: Charleston SC

Quote:

Originally Posted by hustler

Does anyone have tips for lining-up the CKP hall sensor? It seem like I can mount it as close or as far away from the crank as I want and I'm not sure what the distance needs to be.

I will take a video tonight of me CKP clearance on my car so you can see how to do it. I used a credit card as my spacer between the teeth and the sensor, I have never had a problem with it that distance.