Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection
09-27-2012, 11:48 AM
#481
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Actually. What I would do is make it my bitch. Witness and learn:
I would dremel off the female plastic surrounding the prongs.
Then I would solder wires onto each prong, and heatshrink each wire.
Then I would heatshrink all three of the prongs together (yes i have big heatshrink 8x shrink too)
Then I would junkyard a nice small 3 prong connector, both male and female.
Then I would solder the connector bitch onto the wires on both sides and fluff my *****.
I would dremel off the female plastic surrounding the prongs.
Then I would solder wires onto each prong, and heatshrink each wire.
Then I would heatshrink all three of the prongs together (yes i have big heatshrink 8x shrink too)
Then I would junkyard a nice small 3 prong connector, both male and female.
Then I would solder the connector bitch onto the wires on both sides and fluff my *****.
Make sure you set the engine to TDC #1 compression when setting the cam sync tooth.
Another option is to not cut a tooth from the crank wheel and follow the dual wheel / non missing tooth instructions.
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09-27-2012, 12:01 PM
#483
Tour de Franzia
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That makes more sense now, but the tooth is already gone. :(
Hopefully I don't have to take the crank back off because I'm running the TSE wheel and did not install the spacer-ring.
Does anyone have tips for lining-up the CKP hall sensor? It seem like I can mount it as close or as far away from the crank as I want and I'm not sure what the distance needs to be.
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09-27-2012, 12:16 PM
#487
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Ben, I have tried to do this but have difficulty getting the iron down in the hole without burning the shiz out of the connector and flowing the solder where it doesn't belong. Yes this is with a thin tipped weller.
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09-27-2012, 03:20 PM
#490
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I will take a video tonight of me CKP clearance on my car so you can see how to do it. I used a credit card as my spacer between the teeth and the sensor, I have never had a problem with it that distance.
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