Prepping for turbo build
Hmph. I never had any difficulty the 4 times I had to take the motor out and drop the oil pan to find a mystery oil leak
Get it locked in and zip tie it from falling out. Done.
Get it locked in and zip tie it from falling out. Done.
Ninja tool always worked great for me. So did the crank holder, and the front/rear main and cam seal drivers. Perfect installation every time, and well worth the $$ imo.
YMMV
YMMV
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I might have to make my own crank holder tool... I plan on doing my timing belt this weekend and im going to have to figure something out for holding the crank while the motor is on the ground. I guess I could bolt the flywheel on temporarily too and hold it somehow that way.
I might have to make my own crank holder tool... I plan on doing my timing belt this weekend and im going to have to figure something out for holding the crank while the motor is on the ground. I guess I could bolt the flywheel on temporarily too and hold it somehow that way.
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I'm going to pull the 1.6 out this weekend. Can I rip out and trash any of this 1.6 crap?

Got the throttle body mounted up with the 1.6 adapter from Psyber! Now I need a throttle cable re-locator from FM... Or I can fab up my own but I suck at fabbing metal and I would rather have something that looks nice on there, so i'll probably just pay the $10 and buy it from FM lol
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Soooo my Begi front block off plate is wayyy too big (I guess its designed to block off that ugly neck)
Which block off will cover the hole behind the cover?
I tried grinding down the block off I have on a bench grinder but it's not grinding down like I'd like it to
Which block off will cover the hole behind the cover?
I tried grinding down the block off I have on a bench grinder but it's not grinding down like I'd like it to
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Hopefully it gets here quick!
You can always tee it from the heater core line. It'd clean up the front end nice. No stray hoses.
If you need more braided hose and brackets, I'm not using half of my Artech lines
If you need more braided hose and brackets, I'm not using half of my Artech lines
It shouldn't hurt it terribly. It's under pressure, it's still going to flow. The relative size of the return barb is so small comparatively speaking, it doesn't matter too much.
Coolant is still going to be hot and pass through the heat exchanger even if it were an insignificantly slower flow rate.
If you think about it, the MSM uses the metal return tube to the mixing manifold to source it's coolant. Choose your poison, before or after heat exchanger. It is all sourced post pump/pre-thermostat and gets returned pre pump.
Coolant is still going to be hot and pass through the heat exchanger even if it were an insignificantly slower flow rate.
If you think about it, the MSM uses the metal return tube to the mixing manifold to source it's coolant. Choose your poison, before or after heat exchanger. It is all sourced post pump/pre-thermostat and gets returned pre pump.
It shouldn't hurt it terribly. It's under pressure, it's still going to flow. The relative size of the return barb is so small comparatively speaking, it doesn't matter too much.
Coolant is still going to be hot and pass through the heat exchanger even if it were an insignificantly slower flow rate.
If you think about it, the MSM uses the metal return tube to the mixing manifold to source it's coolant. Choose your poison, before or after heat exchanger. It is all sourced post pump/pre-thermostat and gets returned pre pump.
Coolant is still going to be hot and pass through the heat exchanger even if it were an insignificantly slower flow rate.
If you think about it, the MSM uses the metal return tube to the mixing manifold to source it's coolant. Choose your poison, before or after heat exchanger. It is all sourced post pump/pre-thermostat and gets returned pre pump.







