Yeah that mounted coupler is a pain in the ***... definitely right in the way. I might just leave it all as-is and throw the FM hose in there before I get it on the dyno in the spring

 

The NB hose with some trimming does the same thing supposedly. I'll know for sure on Sunday when I swap mine out.

 

Isnt the OEM NB hose practically the same as the 2 na hoses and the metal piece put together?

 

Are we talking about the radiator hose or the rubber tube into the TB?

 

This rad hose... It eliminates that hard mounted Junction pipe found on the NA's


Flyin' Miata : Engine/Drivetrain : Cooling : FM lower radiator hose

 

Oh, mine just had a single hose there, but I'm NB also. I'll take a peek today

 

correct, the NB has a single hose that more or less fits the NA. The NA has 2 hoses connected by a hardpipe and the hardpipe bolts to the chassis.

 

That sounds kinda shitty. Brian, since you work at a shop can't you call and have someone like AutoPartsWarehouse deliver you a basic NB coolant hose today? I doubt Mazda would have that stocked. I don't have a spare one of those, but I do have your new Radiator and Fans in my trunk

 

Yeah I might have to grab a NB lower rad hose. Actually I bought brand new 2 piece hoses a couple weeks ago from our parts supplier... I wonder if they will let me return those and use the credit towards the 1 piece hose

 

See if you can get it today before we put the radiator in so you don't have to waste coolant, to do that lower rad hose you need to dump all the fluid. They should be able to take it back if its clean. If you've already installed it just clean it off and it will be good as new to return

 

It's on it's way! Also picked up my drive belt lol

 

Great news, hope it works better. That Swaintech keeps the heat down, I still use an OEM hose down there

 

Water leaks galore! First the mixing manifold gasket poured water straight out... bolts were tight so not sure what happened. Took the gasket out and re-made one using the roll of paper gasket that I have lying around. That leak stopped.... But also exposed leaking water at the turbo hard lines... Right where the fittings thread into the turbo. Removed the lines (Water drained everywhere lol) And added blue loctite to both sides of the fitting threads. Hopefully that will dry over night and seal everything up.... Maybe try to start it tomorrow providing no more water leaks...

 

Was fun to work on this a little. Glad I was able to contribute with a few things!

 

Yeah I was happy to have an outside view on a few things... Glad the intercooler piping is all set now! Hopefully you can make it back over this way again soon! Like I said if you ever have anything you need to put the car in the air for let me know and we can knock it out over here

 

We're these banjo bolts that were leaking? Maybe use a fatter softer metal for a crush washer like aluminum?

If it's a straight fitting, I don't know if locate is going to do the trick once it reaches full temp and pressures.

 

I used copper washers for my banjos. His go straight in (not banjo) and are leaking at the threads it seems like. I'd try some of the teflon tape, but I don't know how long it will hold up to turbo temps.

Did the bolts come with the turbo or you got them seperately? Are they tapered threads, narrow at the tip and getting wider towards the base?

I'm trying to hammer out some things with my tune remotely but might have to take a ride up to save the time of emailing back and forth. Depending on how that works out I may or may not be available Wednesday. Will keep ya posted.

 

Honestly I'm not sure if they are tapered... I didn't pay much attention to that.

These lines were supplied by Artech. I know Jeffbuc has these lines also I'm going to shoot him a PM and see if there is a trick to them

 

If it's a straight thread fitting and is able to bottom out, use a crush washer with or without a rubber inner. You shouldn't have to gum up the threads with junk

 

From the pic you sent me it looks like there were a few threads left showing. If that's how it is when you fully tighten, you need a washer(s) there