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Old 09-29-2014, 05:24 PM   #401
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It is more expensive, but the Flyin' Miata one piece silicone pipes are soooo nice. I have the FAB9 intercooler and it works perfectly. An easier solution then trying to piece together an entire kit.

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Old 09-29-2014, 05:42 PM   #402
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It is more expensive, but the Flyin' Miata one piece silicone pipes are soooo nice. I have the FAB9 intercooler and it works perfectly. An easier solution then trying to piece together an entire kit.

Hmmm maybe I will use theirs for the hot side and use universal pieces for the cold side to connect to the FM throttle body hose I already have.

Does FM sell a silicone hose for the cold side that mates perfectly to this guy?

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Old 09-29-2014, 07:27 PM   #403
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no, you'd have to figure out how to keep your ITW shut and clock the turbo (compressor housing) 180

is your hood going to close over that?

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Old 09-29-2014, 07:55 PM   #404
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no, you'd have to figure out how to keep your ITW shut and clock the turbo 180

is your hood going to close over that?
Looking at it from the side, it appears so.... I might have to just weld the wastegate and clock the turbo more

I'm also going to just suck it up and de-power my p/s..... I completely abandoned my original thoughts for this car.... It was supposed to be a semi- comfy (a/c & p/s) daily racecar... Now it will be a part time weekend toy lol.... If I knew that I probably would have had Artech make me a better flowing manifold that didn't have to be built around those accessories haha... Oh well ish happens
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:56 PM   #405
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dat sexy bracket doh
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:57 PM   #406
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there's no point for you to point it up like that.
with nb's you could at least do msm-style routing with it like that. on na's it makes no sense.
clock turbo, relocate wg bracket, use traditional ic route
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:08 PM   #407
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Yeah for the FM silicone you'd have to clock it. As Vlad said, just use the traditional routing of the intercooler, easier and much cleaner that way.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:29 PM   #408
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+1 to both above. Keep to your plan, and have what you want.

Clock it to the proper, classical position.

Then, it depends on if you feel the need to keep the turbo pure. In order, from least to most molestation:

1) Put a spacer between the WG and the cover / downpipe part to hold the WG closed. Might be tricky do do this. Possibly that cover could have a boss added and tapped, and a bolt / locknut used to hold the WG in, or some other push system, rather than a pull system that acts on the external WG arm.

2) Weld tapped, aluminum bosses on the compressor housing wherever you need to and use the bracket you already have.

3) Weld the WG shut.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:44 PM   #409
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson View Post
+1 to both above. Keep to your plan, and have what you want.

Clock it to the proper, classical position.

Then, it depends on if you feel the need to keep the turbo pure. In order, from least to most molestation:

1) Put a spacer between the WG and the cover / downpipe part to hold the WG closed. Might be tricky do do this. Possibly that cover could have a boss added and tapped, and a bolt / locknut used to hold the WG in, or some other push system, rather than a pull system that acts on the external WG arm.

2) Weld tapped, aluminum bosses on the compressor housing wherever you need to and use the bracket you already have.

3) Weld the WG shut.
Solid ideas... Thanks!

Earlier today I devised a small bracket that allowed me to clock the turbo a tad bit more... With a larger bracket I might be able to clock it more.... BUT I would prefer to have the bracket on the opposite side of the turbo. I might end up trying to make #2 work

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Old 09-29-2014, 08:54 PM   #410
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Oh also.... I removed that black canister with (3)? vacuum lines going to it (Charcoal canister?)

What should I do with those hard lines? Connect them with a hose? Cap them off?

*Edit found a write-up where they just joined the lines with some Fuel line.... I will do that tomorrow

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Old 09-29-2014, 11:47 PM   #411
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Here is a pic of what we did. Took 1/2" dia stock, drilled and tapped, shaped to match, and welded it on.
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Old 09-30-2014, 03:31 AM   #412
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Oh also.... I removed that black canister with (3)? vacuum lines going to it (Charcoal canister?)

What should I do with those hard lines? Connect them with a hose? Cap them off?

*Edit found a write-up where they just joined the lines with some Fuel line.... I will do that tomorrow
I capped the manifold ports and the vent hardline. No problems with too much pressure in the gas tank.

I only had one hardline...need to see what happened to my other one now. I haven't had issues though so maybe you can delete the unnecessary one as I did.
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Old 09-30-2014, 08:55 AM   #413
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Any idea if I could drill/tap these two nubs on the turbo? Will it affect the strength or anything? Looks like I might be able to put the bracket there if I can make 2 holes....

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Old 09-30-2014, 09:03 AM   #414
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you can, but it will tap directly into the charge path.

this is why I like the design of T3s:

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Old 09-30-2014, 09:10 AM   #415
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Quote:
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you can, but it will tap directly into the charge path.
I might just tap into those.... I would keep them really shallow and not tap all the way into the charge path
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:26 AM   #416
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you can tap through, just make sure it doesn't leak.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:32 AM   #417
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Quote:
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you can tap through, just make sure it doesn't leak.
Ok cool thanks
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Old 10-02-2014, 01:30 PM   #418
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So the BS continues.... I should have checked the bracket to see if it would fit before I started drilling... thankfully I only drilled a tiny hole before I thought about it

Bracket wont work here



So my new plan (Have to bend a new bracket)




Does anyone know if Flyin Miata makes the one piece hose with 2.0" on one end (my turbo flange has a 2" outlet) and 2.5 on the other end for the intercooler? I wonder if I will have to find a 2.5" flange for my turbo...

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Old 10-02-2014, 03:02 PM   #419
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Flyin miata hose is 2"-> 2.5"

You still have to clock 90 degrees clockwise so the outlet points down. Also need to slot the sheet metal a slight bit in your car which is no big deal

Then you can continue as planned and tap that other boss to shut the wastegate
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Old 10-02-2014, 03:05 PM   #420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix View Post
Flyin miata hose is 2"-> 2.5"

You still have to clock 90 degrees clockwise so the outlet points down. Also need to slot the sheet metal a slight bit in your car which is no big deal
Perfect, thanks! I have no problem slotting the sheet metal lol. I can also clock the turbo straight down, I think it looks better that way anyway lol
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