You overdo so much. I love it. My "hangar" bending solution was a blowtorch, jack handle, and a hammer.

 

Its a love hate thing. Im an@l in wierd ways, I have a hard time controlling it. The love part is sometimes I impress myself, and I like quality and above all else, elegance in design . The hate part is that it probably took me 3 times longer, and a $1k lathe to get the same result as you.

Well now isnt that just sexy




I had to add one more hanger right before the muffler, again stolen from stock exhaust. I didnt even realize that isolator was hanging there until I started to look for how I could mount something in that area as it needed support.




Here's how the other side of the muffler is mounted




And here you can see the one i had to make. Exhaust is 100% done and installed. Finally. I shook the hell out of it like gorilla to see how much force it takes to make it contact something. Its substantial.




I like this.

 

Looks good! I like the radii, but I'm sure my bench vise and hammer method is a bit quicker! I'm slightly curious how you turned down a long piece of 5/8 to 3/8", you have a $1000 swiss lathe?

I've been looking around at copper tubing like I mentioned earlier and it's pretty much non-existant in 5/8 OD. I'm thinking about hacking and cutting the stock water return tube, then just using a stock heater hose and another little nub of hose to connect to the water neck.

I wonder if it's steel, I'd just tack another ear to it and run it that way if it were. If not I'm thinking about just making some strapping to hold the front steady.

 

Oddly enough, it was a piece of the stock I make the S10 rear disc e brake adapter thingys with. I cut the stock to 8", mount in the chuck just sticking out, face, center drill (as in pilot with 60 degree CS). Then just mount it up on a live center.

I happen to have a pic of doing the same thing for the bead roller, using the same stock, but only reduced to 1/2".


Which reminds me, I think the $13 shipped live center pictured above is dying, it was hot enough to burn after running for 15 minutes. I have beat the hell out if it for the last 4 years.

Copper pipe is measured by nominal ID. Pipe is usually measured by ID as it is intended to carry a fluid. Tubing on the other hand is measured by OD as its generally used for fabrication. I assumed 5/8" nominal should be close enough for the hose to stretch over, no? you could always just braze some barbs onto the ends too.

Edit- Pretty certain the return tube is aluminium. I have it in a box somewhere I can check for you?

 

Ahh, I see. I've been using lathes without tailstocks long enough I kinda forgot they exist. I've little advice for a new center

I was hoping to use the soft side copper refrigerant tubing, I think it's measured in OD, but getting my hands on anything less than 50 feet isn't gonna happen. I guess I could make up some HDracing copper fitting water return, I'm sure hose would fit as well...

No biggie on finding that tubing, I can hit it with a magnet here. Waiting on my water pump inlet piece, then I'll get after doing something

 

Is your current live center rebuildable? New bearings and grease ought to set you up.

 

You may be right, to be honest im not familiar with copper and am partially talking out my ***. But I always thought, it was a nominal ID number and the fittings are larger than the nominal to make it around the OD, and leave some room for capillary action, etc.

When you first mentioned this idea, I envisioned the soft **** that come on rolls.


I think it is. It has spanner holes on the face and the end of the taper is plugged with a screw, making me think theres something I can access there. But, like I said, it was $13 an I did mess up a little spot on the nose.

 

Heres the exact center I have
MT3 Medium Duty Live Center New | eBay

The ebay seller I buy all my tooling from that I originally got it from for $13 shipped doesnt seem to carry it anymore. They have different offerings now for a little over $20 shipped.

 

What do you gheys think? Too close for comfort? keep in mind heat shield still needs to be made. Im going to wrap it around as close to the mani as posible so its in between the turbo/dp and dipstick.

I swapped the heater hoses and was able to make the radius. The concern is more about the mani, than the DP. It looks close in the pic, but the hose is an 1" + away from the #4 elbow.





I would zip tie all this together, but well, you know...

 

I think you're fine. Heater hose is actively water cooled, like the head. I've always been surprised at how good the condition of the heater hose rubber is when disassembled -- no matter how close it's run to exhaust components.

Oil drain hose on the other hand . . . that one cooks.

 

Thats what I was hoping to hear. Thanks Rick.

Last time I did hoses on the S10, I saved the woven plastic chaff thing from the upper hose. Fits perfect!

 

Every day ive worked on this thing for the last week or 2, ive had to clean out spider webs from the drivers side front bumper area. She showed herself tonight!




That is a female black widow. I went to kill her and she disappeared again, I have no idea where shes hiding, but its fun to think shes been there this whole time, inches from me working.

I trimmed the under tray around the inter cooler piping and got it mounted up, bumper skin is 80% back on. The area around the spider has no fasteners because I dont feel like getting bit by a widow tonight. Oil and aluminum chips are drained and flushed the best I could, still nervous about that. Filled up the radiator, not one leak. I just need to rewire the IAT tomorrow, reset timing and start it up!

 

Which reminds me, tips on modifying fuel and spark tables to start with? Is there some general rule, like ad xx% of VE for every X amount of KPa until VEAL and I can get things under control?

 

<br />Hailey (gf): "**** that I'm out"
<br /><br />Download DIYs base maps and go from there.

 

 

My favorite thing about the PNW is the lack of animals that can kill you.

 

Lol, even our flora will tear your *** up.

 

OMFG the motor mounts are stiff.

I primed the fuel pump and she started right up, exhaust note is pleasant and not too loud, although I havnt wot redlined it yet. Let it idle for about 10 seconds waiting for my WB to give me some numbers and it never did. Then I remembered the O2 sensor is sitting on the bench lol.

Either im going to have to grow a huge set of *****, or do something with these mounts. Ill have to see how it drives before I make a decision.

Also, WG actuator hit hood.
All better.

 

Send me the mounts, I'll send you my mazdacomp mounts. Problem solved

 

If youre serious, I may actually take you up on that. Are yours used or new?