I tried adding fuel to those cells, advancing spark, retarding spark and I still get nothing. It really seems like when I adjust the PID control, nothing changes. Here's the latest MSQ if someone wants to look.

Also, I've been making these adjustments thinking that PID/IAC settings will "add airflow" rather than take it away assuming the idle screw permits the minimum airflow required to idle the car and the IAC/PID will add airflow to increase the idle speed. Is this correct?

 

How much Idle duty % is reasonable in the AC table. At about 65% duty it does much better than what everyone else is recommending which is more like 15-30%. At 65 percent the AC on/off rpm drop is only from 900-600 or so. With the 35% duty its going from 900-400 and usually dying.

 

WTF is up with the PID inconsistency with and without AC?

 

I seem to get the same thing. Idles good without AC, turn AC on and it will oscillate like crazy. I haven't messed with it much though, too busy enjoying AC that doesn't stall the car.

 

I don't have oscillation, I get random idle dip off over-run or with AC cycling. 75% of the time, it works.

 

First-world problems.

 

The maximum I have ever needed on my car is 14%. However, your A/C system is probably different and may need more duty, depending on the refrigerant used and the compressor itself.

 

i add 12.5% with a/c

 

my single-value AC idle-up duty is 3.1% and while it helps the initial rise, it's actually SLIGHTLY too high for steady state and the PID brings it down slightly. this results in a 3.1% decrease in idle duty when the AC switches off and can result in a dip because the idle drops to a tiny bit below the real value it needs to be at. Realistically it's not noticable but if I run more duty for AC, it'll dip when it shuts off.

As far as dipping at coast down, that may be your max decel load setting.

 

I'm a little torn on continuing to jack with it vs leave it and start over with the VVT engine swap.

So, any thoughts on what my CKP and CMP settings should look like for the VVT engine using the 2001 style sensors? I may start the swap next weekend if my turbo comes back for the green car.

 

not sure if you're using ms3x hardware but this is a good starting point:

 

You will only need to switch from "4G63" to "Miata 99-04", under "Basic Setup" -> "Tach input/ignition settings".

 

Took a quick vid of the A/C idle up on my own car today. This is as good as it gets.

 

That's amazing! Have you posted your .msq anywhere? I'd love to see it.

 

Damn.......

 

If you turn up the volume, you can even hear the A/C compressor kicking in.

Le settings:

 

The only Miata settings I have in there are fro "Miata 99-00". My goal for today is figuring out how to wire-in the new 2001 coils and set them up.

 

Correct, 99-00.

 

Can someone help me out here? It appears that:

• brw and brw/yel from 1994 goes to coil pack #1, brown goes to #2
• 1994 blue and 2001blk/wht appear to be power from the ignition switch
• 1994 black and 2001 black are GND
• 1994 blk/wht was Jack Bower bomb diffused (cut because it's no longer driving a tach)

1994:

2001:

I found this thread on setting dwell at 5ms:
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/stock-ign-dwell-01-a-55579/
What should my accel compensation and max spark duration be; 1.0 and .7? What about cranking dwell?

Thanks.

 

Brown/yellow goes go coilpack #1 (which sparks cylinders 1 & 4). Brown goes to coilpack #2.

This is the same for both 94 and 01 coils. So that leaves black, which is ground for both 94 and 01, and then power, which is blue for the 94 and black/white for the 01.

Done.

I use 3.1ms for my 02 coilpacks. Spark is strong, no misfires, coilpacks are still alive 10 years after. Leave the rest alone.