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Prepping for turbo build

Old Oct 22, 2014 | 04:52 PM
  #541  
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
Get your Afr table setup and do a week or so of auto tuning before going to the dyno. Its super easy. Plus it will mean less money spent on the dyno.

I've been told by many that you really should only utilize the dyno to get your timing map setup properly. Mostly everything else you can do yourself, and you'll have a better tune running auto tune as much as possible.


Thoughts on this afr table? I copied it to my tune this morning I plan on driving with ve analyze on as soon as it's not raining outside lol
Attached Thumbnails Prepping for turbo build-screenshot_2014-10-22-16-45-55_zps6vqgit3q.png  
Old Oct 22, 2014 | 06:03 PM
  #542  
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Looks fine to me, any reason your cells around idle aren't stoich?
Old Oct 22, 2014 | 06:48 PM
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yea what I did was left the Authority Limits whatever tuner studio had by default, started with Easy/Normal and drove around for a while till it started showing some major changes. Drop Cell Change Resistance to Normal/Hard and repeat.

Then decrease Authotity Limits to be a bit tighter so it won't change as rastically, then repeat from Normal to Very Hard.

But lots and lots of driving.
Old Oct 22, 2014 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
Looks fine to me, any reason your cells around idle aren't stoich?
No idea... I copied this chart from y8s in a thread somewhere on here... Braineack commented that his chart was extremely similar so I assumed it was good/safe to use lol

Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
yea what I did was left the Authority Limits whatever tuner studio had by default, started with Easy/Normal and drove around for a while till it started showing some major changes. Drop Cell Change Resistance to Normal/Hard and repeat.

Then decrease Authotity Limits to be a bit tighter so it won't change as rastically, then repeat from Normal to Very Hard.

But lots and lots of driving.
Ok im going to give it a shot tomorrow weather/time - permitting
Old Oct 22, 2014 | 10:56 PM
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Also realize that when autotuning, try to do it at around your normal temperature that you drive the car at. If you autotune in the afternoon when its hot, and then do it again early in the morning, the AIT will really mess with your cells.
Old Oct 22, 2014 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
Also realize that when autotuning, try to do it at around your normal temperature that you drive the car at. If you autotune in the afternoon when its hot, and then do it again early in the morning, the AIT will really mess with your cells.
Noted thanks. Temps should be ~70 here the next few days so that should work... I plan to put the car away for the winter by next month and it will be back out in the spring for a new rad, catch can, torsen, and possibly a brake upgrade... we'll see lol
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:06 PM
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So I noticed there is no AFR reading... I looked in my console where I have my LC-2 controller mounted and the light was blinking green... According to their instructions that means that the sensor is "warming up"... How long should it take to warm up? I had the car running for ~3 minutes...

This is what it was showing...

Attached Thumbnails Prepping for turbo build-20141023_115630_zpsbjijfmel.jpg  
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BTMiata
So I noticed there is no AFR reading... I looked in my console where I have my LC-2 controller mounted and the light was blinking green... According to their instructions that means that the sensor is "warming up"... How long should it take to warm up? I had the car running for ~3 minutes...

This is what it was showing...

Mine does that pretty consistently. Normally turning it on and off again fixes it. Might wire up a button to reset it. I've heard this is kind of normal. If you plug in your serial cable to the LC-2 and run the logging software it seems that the sensor gets stuck at warming up. I called Innovate and they said if the voltage drops below 12V at any point during warm up it can happen. Try restarting the car.
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Mine does that pretty consistently. Normally turning it on and off again fixes it. Might wire up a button to reset it. I've heard this is kind of normal. If you plug in your serial cable to the LC-2 and run the logging software it seems that the sensor gets stuck at warming up. I called Innovate and they said if the voltage drops below 12V at any point during warm up it can happen. Try restarting the car.
Ill give that a shot thanks
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BTMiata
Ill give that a shot thanks
I'm going to try running a relay straight from the fuse box and if that doesn't fix it I'll bug innovate some more.
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:22 PM
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I also had a mishap where I left the plastic protective cap on the sensor while it was plugged in (Sensor was zip tied off to the side) and the plastic melted onto the sensor. I'm wondering if that somehow damaged it...
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BTMiata
I also had a mishap where I left the plastic protective cap on the sensor while it was plugged in (Sensor was zip tied off to the side) and the plastic melted onto the sensor. I'm wondering if that somehow damaged it...
I doubt it, mine does this almost every time it starts up.
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
I doubt it, mine does this almost every time it starts up.
I just realized I never re-calibrated the sensor when I re-installed it (I have since scraped off that melted plastic from a few months back) I'll see if I can get a calibration done and see if that changes anything... I re-started the car about 5 times just now and nothing changed
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:32 PM
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Hopefully the plastic isn't imbeded blocking flow. Absolute worst case scenario, a new sensor is about $60 from parts stores.

Bosch 17014
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:33 PM
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Can you plug your serial cable into the LC-2?
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
Hopefully the plastic isn't imbeded blocking flow. Absolute worst case scenario, a new sensor is about $60 from parts stores.

Bosch 17014
I hope not... Thats another $60 I dont want to spend lol

Originally Posted by aidandj
Can you plug your serial cable into the LC-2?
Uhhhh I havent before... I dont know if I have a cable for the lc-2
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:46 PM
  #557  
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Here is the sensor... Im going to try to free-air calibrate it now

Attached Thumbnails Prepping for turbo build-20141023_124402_zpsttifaawd.jpg  
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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It should have come with one.
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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bah looks fiiine. Have you calibrated TunerStudio for the sensor? (or just used presets?)
Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:56 PM
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I think the sensor is dead... Its heating up while I was letting it calibrate, but the calibration mode never completed. The instructions say to let it go for 30-60 seconds... I waited about 3 minutes. Im going to order another sensor and try again

Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
bah looks fiiine. Have you calibrated TunerStudio for the sensor? (or just used presets?)
I just used the pre-set values for lc-1/lc-2

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